Ruby red, powerful, unforgettable: a tribute to Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino: the crowning glory of Tuscan viticulture

Brunello di Montalcino is not just a wine - it is a legend. Made from the Sangiovese grape, it epitomises the essence of Tuscany: sun-drenched hills, medieval villages and a centuries-old winemaking tradition that can be felt in every bottle. As one of the first Italian wines with DOCG status (1980), Brunello stands for the highest quality, exceptional longevity and unmistakable character. Its name is derived from "Brunello", the local synonym for Sangiovese Grosso, and the picturesque town of Montalcino, perched on a hill in southern Tuscany. This wine is a symbol of Italian craftsmanship - powerful yet elegant, fruity yet complex, with a potential for maturity that allows for fascinating development over decades.

The history of Brunello di Montalcino is inextricably linked to the Biondi-Santi family. In the 19th century, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi began selecting a particularly high-quality Sangiovese clone and vinifying a long-lasting, dry red wine from it. His 1888 vintage is considered the first "modern" Brunello and is still kept in the winery's cellars today. However, it was only in the second half of the 20th century that Brunello gained international renown, when wine lovers and critics discovered the exceptional quality and ageing potential of these wines. Today, Montalcino is one of the most prestigious wine-growing regions in the world, and Brunello is one of the most sought-after - and most talked-about - wines in Italy.

The terroir of Montalcino differs significantly from other Tuscan wine-growing regions such as Chianti or Montepulciano. The location further south and at a lower altitude ensures a warmer, drier microclimate, which gives the Sangiovese grape a particularly concentrated ripeness. The soils vary greatly: in the north around Montalcino, the cooler climate and more mineralised soils dominate, producing more elegant wines rich in finesse. In the south, towards Sant'Angelo in Colle, the soils are sandier and the climate hotter, resulting in stronger, more extract-rich Brunellos. In between are countless microzones, the different characteristics of which are closely studied by passionate winegrowers and connoisseurs. This diversity explains why Brunellos can turn out so differently even within the same municipality.

The Sangiovese Grosso grape, from which Brunello is made exclusively, is a special selection of the Sangiovese family. It ripens later than its relatives and develops smaller berries with thicker skins, which leads to a higher tannin content and more intense colour. Montalcino's best vineyards (cru) are often south or south-west facing to ensure maximum exposure to the sun. The harvest usually begins in mid-October - much later than in Chianti - and requires careful hand-picking to select perfectly ripe grapes. The strict DOCG regulations stipulate that Brunello di Montalcino must mature for at least five years, at least two of which must be in oak barrels and four months in the bottle. For the Riserva category, this minimum ageing period is increased to six years. However, many top producers exceed these requirements by far and allow their wines to mature significantly longer in wood and in the cellar before bringing them to market.

The vinification of Brunello has changed over the decades. Traditionally, the wine was left on the skins for a long time and matured in large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), resulting in structured, rather restrained wines with long ageing potential. In the 1990s, some modern winemakers experimented with shorter maceration times, temperature control and small French barriques, which produced more fruit-driven wines that were more accessible in their youth. This "style conflict" between traditionalists and modernists has since been defused somewhat - most top producers today pursue a balanced approach that combines the advantages of both methods. However, it is undisputed that great Brunellos need time: even in vintages that are considered "easy-drinking", they often only develop their true greatness after a decade or more.

Among the numerous Brunello producers, a few wineries stand out that have been setting standards for generations. Biondi-Santi, the "bedrock" of Brunello, continues to produce some of the longest-lived and most complex wines in the region - their Riserva "Tenuta Il Greppo" is a legend among wine lovers. Equally steeped in tradition is the Costanti house, whose Brunellos are appreciated for their classic elegance and mineral depth. On the more modern side is Casanova di Neri, whose "Cerretalto" and "Tenuta Nuova" regularly receive top marks. In between are innovative but terroir-linked producers such as Soldera, whose minimalist, interventionist wines are among the most sought-after (and most expensive) in Italy, and Poggio di Sotto, known for its velvety, aromatically dense Brunellos. Smaller but high-calibre estates such as Le Chiuse or Canalicchio di Sopra prove that size does not necessarily correlate with quality.

The differences in the vintages of Brunello di Montalcino are particularly pronounced due to the Mediterranean microclimate. Outstanding vintages such as 1997, 2004, 2006, 2010, 2015 and 2016 produced wines of exceptional concentration and ageability. More difficult vintages such as 2002 or 2013 demanded everything from the winegrowers, but even in these years, some top wineries achieved amazing things. A special phenomenon is the age-related development of Brunello: young wines can appear closed due to their strong tannins and acidity; only with time do they develop their full complexity. Most Brunellos reach their drinking plateau after 10-15 years, but great growths from outstanding vineyards can continue to mature for 20, 30 years or longer.

Tasting a great Brunello is a sensual experience. Young wines should be decanted for at least an hour before drinking to allow their flavours to develop. The glass reveals an intense ruby red colour with garnet hues that fade into brick as the wine matures. The nose reveals a complex bouquet of dark cherries, plums, violets, laurel, tobacco and often a mineral, ferrous note that is typical of Montalcino. On the palate, juicy fruit combines with taut acidity and fine-grained tannins to create a long, complex finish. Traditional food partners are Tuscan classics such as wild boar ragù, bistecca alla Fiorentina or mature pecorino. However, Brunello also finds suitable accompaniments outside the regional cuisine thanks to its structure and versatility.

Brunello di Montalcino occupies a special position on the global wine market. Despite comparatively low production volumes (the entire DOCG zone only covers around 3,500 hectares), it enjoys the highest reputation worldwide. Prices for top wines can reach four-figure euro amounts, especially for sought-after single vineyards and old vintages. At the same time, Brunello remains a wine with strong local roots - many of the best producers are still family businesses that have been based in Montalcino for generations.

Brunello producers are also concerned about the future: how will climate change affect the traditionally long ageing periods? Will the increasing demand for more accessible wines change the characteristic structure of Brunello? How can authenticity be preserved in a globalised wine world? The answers to these questions will shape the character of future vintages. But one thing is certain: as long as winemakers work with dedication and respect for the terroir, Brunello di Montalcino will maintain its place among the world's great wines. It is more than just a drink - it is the flavourful expression of a landscape and culture that is second to none.