Philipponnat: A champagne house with a royal history and unmistakable terroir character
In the heart of Champagne, in the picturesque village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, stands one of the oldest and most innovative champagne houses: Philipponnat. Winegrowing has been practised here for over five centuries, but it is only since the 17th century that the Philipponnat family has dedicated itself entirely to the art of champagne production. What makes this house so special is its deep connection to the terroir of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ - one of the few Premier Cru villages in Champagne - and its unmistakable style: powerful yet elegant, rich in flavours but always with a precise acidity structure. Philipponnat stands for champagnes that not only sparkle, but also tell stories - of historic vineyards, of artisanal perfection and of a family passionately dedicated to wine.
The roots: a family with royal connections
The history of the Philipponnat family dates back to 1522, when the first documented mention of the name appeared in Champagne. However, it was not until 1910 that Pierre Philipponnat founded the current Champagne house, after the family had been active as wine growers and merchants for generations. A special chapter in the story is the connection to King Louis XV, who appreciated the wines from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and had them served at his court. Even today, the royal coat of arms in the house logo bears witness to this traditional past.
Another milestone was the acquisition of the famous "Clos des Goisses" parcel in 1935 - one of the steepest and sunniest vineyards in Champagne, which is now considered one of the best sites in the region. This climatic anomaly, located directly on the Marne, produces grapes of exceptional ripeness and concentration, which give Philipponnat's Champagnes their unmistakable depth.
The terroir of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ: minerality and finesse
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is one of only 17 villages in Champagne to have Premier Cru status. The soils here are characterised by limestone and marl, which give the wines a distinctive minerality and longevity. Philipponnat owns around 20 hectares of its own vineyards, including some of the oldest plots in Champagne.
The speciality of the terroir lies in its orientation: the slopes of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ are exposed to the south and south-east, which guarantees optimal sunshine. At the same time, the proximity to the Marne provides a temperate microclimate that protects the grapes from extreme weather conditions. The main grape varieties are Pinot Noir (which accounts for around 60% of the plantings) and Chardonnay, with Philipponnat focussing in particular on old, ungrafted vines that penetrate deep into the limestone soil and thus develop a unique spectrum of aromas.
Clos des Goisses: a legend among Champagne vineyards
The crowning glory of the Philipponnat portfolio is undoubtedly the "Clos des Goisses" - a champagne that has been vinified almost unchanged since 1935 from the same 5.5-hectare plot. What makes this wine so special is its exceptional ripeness: with a slope of up to 45 degrees and a southern orientation, the grapes ripen here under almost Mediterranean conditions.
The Clos des Goisses is only produced in outstanding vintages and typically consists of around two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. After maturing in the bottle for at least eight years, it develops a spectrum of flavours ranging from ripe apricots to candied ginger root and smoky mineral notes - a champagne of unparalleled complexity and depth.
The Philipponnat philosophy: respect for the terroir
What sets Philipponnat apart from many other champagne houses is its consistent renunciation of technical manipulation. Chef de Cave Charles Philipponnat (who ran the house until 1999) and his successor are committed to:
Spontaneous fermentation: unlike many large houses, Philipponnat does not use industrial yeasts, but allows the cellar's natural yeasts to take over fermentation - for more terroir expression.
Long lees contact time: Most cuvées mature on the lees for at least twice as long as required by law, which gives them additional complexity.
Restrained dosage: Most Philipponnat champagnes have a dosage of less than 8 g/l, which emphasises the natural freshness of the wine.
The portfolio: From the classic cuvée to the rarity
Royale Réserve Non Dosé: A purist champagne without any dosage, which shows the pure minerality of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.
1522: The prestige cuvée of the house, named after the year the family was founded, a harmonious blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Clos des Goisses: The legendary single-vineyard cuvée, which is only produced in the best years.
Grand Blanc: A pure Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards that impresses with its floral elegance.
The future: tradition and innovation in harmony
Since the takeover by the EPI Group (which also owns Château La Lagune) in 1997, Philipponnat has continued to raise its quality standards. Investments in modern presses and even stricter parcel selection show that the house wants to preserve tradition without closing itself off to new technologies.
At the same time, Philipponnat is increasingly focussing on sustainable cultivation: all of its own vineyards have been HVE-certified since 2015, and the first biodynamic trials are already underway.
Conclusion: Champagne with character
In a region where many large houses are focussing on consistent styles, Philipponnat courageously preserves its individuality. Whether the powerful Clos des Goisses or the delicate Royale Réserve - every champagne from this house bears the unmistakable signature of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. For connoisseurs, Philipponnat has always been an insider tip; for the house itself, it is an obligation to keep the soul of Champagne alive in every bottle.
1. historical roots & development
Family origins: The Philipponnats have been based in Aÿ, one of the oldest wine-growing communities in Champagne, since the 16th century.
Official foundation of the house: 1910 by Pierre Philipponnat, who established the winery as an independent brand.
Modern era: Part of the Boizel Chanoine Champagne Group (now Lanson-BCC) since 1997, Philipponnat retains a high degree of autonomy in production.
2. the legendary single vineyard: Clos des Goisses
Significance: One of the first "single-vineyard" Champagnes in Champagne (in the range since 1935).
Geology:
Soil: Deep chalk layer with marl, extremely permeable → concentrated minerality.
Microclimate: South-southeast exposure, steep slope (45° inclination) → optimal sun exposure.
Grape varieties: 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay (originally even 60/40).
Vinification:
Ageing in wooden barrels (partly new barriques).
Long ageing on the lees: At least 8 years, often longer (e.g. 2002 Clos des Goisses spent 12 years on the lees).
Dosage: Mostly Extra Brut (0-6 g/l), sometimes Brut Nature (0 g/l).
Vintage dependency: Clos des Goisses is only produced in top years (e.g. 2008, 2012, 2015).
3. further key cuvées in detail
Royale Réserve Brut (non-vintage)
Grape variety mix: 65% Pinot Noir (mainly Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ), 30% Chardonnay (Avize, Cramant), 5% Meunier.
Reserve wines: Up to 30% from older vintages (Solera system).
Maturation: 3 years on the lees, dosage 7 g/litre.
Flavour profile: Ripe apricot, honey, light smoky notes.
1522 (Millésime or NV)
Origin: Almost exclusively Grand Cru vineyards (Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ).
Pinot Noir-dominated (often 80%+), sometimes a small proportion of Chardonnay.
Style: Powerful, dark berry fruit, long finish.
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Oger.
Maturation: 5+ years on the lees.
Character: Citrus, white peach, salty minerality.
4. winemaking & philosophy
Terroir focus: No uniform "house style", but expressions true to the vineyard.
Use of wooden barrels: Mainly for Clos des Goisses and reserve wines (no strong toasting effect).
Sustainability:
Lutte raisonnée ("controlled" cultivation).
No full organic certification, but pesticide minimisation.
5. figures & exclusivity
Total vineyard area: ~18 hectares (of which 5 ha Clos des Goisses).
Clos des Goisses production volume: Only 10,000-15,000 bottles/year (depending on the vintage).
Price segment:
Royale Réserve: ~50-60 €.
Clos des Goisses: 300-600 € (depending on the vintage).
6. current highlights & vintages
2015 Clos des Goisses: 98 Parker points, considered one of the best vintages of the decade.
1522 Rosé: Rare cuvée with a long maceration period (no saignée process).
7. curiosities & anecdotes
Origin of the name "Goisses": Old dialect expression for "steep slope".
Historical connection: The family supplied the court of Louis XV in the 18th century.
Philipponnat stands for precision, loyalty to the terroir and master craftsmanship - the Clos des Goisses in particular is a champagne for purists.