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Cloudburst - Australian cult wines with top international ratings.

Even for the up-and-coming wine country of Australia, where everything is a little more dynamic than in the old world, the meteoric rise of this small winery is extremely unusual. The winery is tiny, the man behind it - Will Berliner - is a biologist, but a rather inexperienced nobody when it comes to Vienna. Just over ten years ago, he bought land in Australia's premium Margaret River wine region that had never been used for agriculture before. And his first wines have already brought him widespread recognition on the international wine scene.

The wine region

Margaret River is a town in the far south-west of the Australian continent, close to the Indian Ocean. An area of around 60 square kilometres is used for growing vines around the friendly small town and around 140 wineries produce white and red wines of outstanding quality. In terms of volume, the region only accounts for around three per cent of Australian wine production, but almost 20 per cent of Australia's premium wines originate here. In addition to ideal soil conditions, the climate offers optimal conditions. It is similar to the climatic conditions in the French wine-growing region of Bordeaux. The temperatures are balanced, there are neither extremely hot summers nor very cold winters. The nearby ocean ensures a relatively high level of humidity, which perfectly supports the growth of new wine, especially in spring. Together with the craftsmanship and oenological skills of the dedicated winegrowers, these conditions have made the area one of the best wine regions in the world.

Will Berliner - an unusual winegrower

The now 65-year-old American came to Australia just over ten years ago. He has a degree in biology, but made his money in the United States selling outdoor equipment. In the early 2000s, he was looking for a completely new field of work and emigrated Down Under with his family. He is regarded as a creative lateral thinker and an advocate of uncompromising organic farming. He is also a very communicative person with excellent sales skills and has a strong talent for marketing. His quest for the perfect wine goes hand in hand with a high degree of persistence and patience. He only launched his first wine on the market a few years later and immediately achieved outstanding ratings. He became the first Australian winemaker to achieve a sales price of over 500 Australian dollars for a single bottle.


Organic cultivation on the perfect terroir

Will Berliner laid the foundations for the great success of his wines when selecting suitable land. He opted for a site that had never been cultivated before and had therefore never been contaminated with artificial fertilisers, herbicides or insecticides. Vines were planted that had not been grafted onto other people's rootstocks, but were pure varieties throughout. The vines were planted in close rows, allowing the individual plants to grow only to a limited extent, which means that the yield of each vine is correspondingly low, but each grape develops a high concentration of ingredients and natural, varietal flavours. The vines have deep roots and are able to secure their own water supply. Artificial irrigation can therefore be completely dispensed with. During the growth phase, the soil is enriched with biodynamic composts and natural minerals. There is a high level of biodiversity in the vineyard due to the vegetation around the edges, which provides a protected habitat for numerous small animals. Trellising, pruning and harvesting are carried out exclusively by hand in order to avoid any harmful compaction of the soil. Transport to the winery takes place in small quantities to ensure the freshness and integrity of the grapes.

The wines of Cloudburst

In the comparatively short period of just one decade, Berliner has managed to establish his wines among the absolute world leaders. The wines have a firm place on numerous wine lists of highly decorated restaurants in Australia and the USA and are also represented in leading specialist shops. Cloudburst wines are not cheap and are among the most expensive wines in the region, with bottle prices ranging from 200 to 400 Australian dollars (approx. 125 to 250 euros), depending on the vintage. In addition to the outstanding quality, the high price is also due to the very limited supply. Berliner only cultivates an area of just over one hectare and only produces a few thousand bottles per year. The winery has focussed on three varieties. Only Chardonney (attention: correct Chardonnay!), Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec are cultivated. All the wines are unusually dense and complex. Characteristics that never cease to amaze experts, as they come from vines that are only just over five years old.

A great white wine

Berliners Chardonney (attention: correct Chardonnay!) is an unusually full-bodied white wine that initially makes a closed impression, even in older vintages. It is advisable to decant it some time before serving. It should also not be enjoyed too cold. Depending on the vintage, the nose reveals a highly diverse interplay of aromas, varying between light citrus tones, deep fruit notes, hints of honey and very fine wood flavours. On the palate, one senses a complex density with a restrained, creamy texture that is complemented by a gentle minerality. These are white wines with a structure reminiscent of great Burgundies, but with their own unique profile, they open up completely new flavour experiences.

The classic red: Cabernet Sauvignon

Even though the various vintages differ in many nuances, they do share a common characteristic. They surprise on the nose with subtle floral accents that quickly deepen into deep fruity notes. In between, there are often hints of exotic spices, as well as laurel and aniseed. On the palate, a harmonious interplay of elegant tannins, red fruits such as mulberries or blackcurrants and a slight hint of cocoa and tobacco develops. A Cabernet Sauvignon from Berliner is an unusually complex red wine whose density reflects the characteristics of the Margaret River wine-growing region and has great individuality.

Unusual and inspiring: Malbec

Producing this wine from a single grape variety is a very individual and courageous decision by Berliner, a committed winemaker. The grape is rather atypical for the south-west of Australia and great Malbec wines tend to come from South America or south-west France. But here, too, Berliner has created a wine that is as outstanding as it is independent and fully lives up to the winery's high standards. The individual vintages have nuanced individual characteristics, but a common basis can nevertheless be recognised. These are unusually deep wines with an incredibly intense finish. One encounters clear aromas of stewed apples, fully ripe blackberries and plums. The complex bouquet is captured by a strong framework of hickory and mocha notes. This wine delivers a multi-faceted combination of different impressions and is worth discovering at your leisure.


Here are some tasting notes on the wines from Will Berliner:

Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

-- Colin Hay: Ethereal and a singularity. Very essential. Lilac. Iris. Peony. Hyacinth bulb. Fresh and lifted, tasting biodynamic. Broad and amply framed, yet elegant, beguiling and singular. Crystalline and incredibly delicate on the finish. Leafy and aromatic to the end. But don't miss the power, the density and the intensity of this - it's deceptive in its levity but it's actually quite considerable and with a significant tannic presence that will see it go the distance. Bourguignon in the best sense. 98/100

Cabernet Sauvignon

-- Jane Anson: A distinctive take on Cabernet Sauvignon from this gorgeous estate in Western Australia, bringing in a ton of succulent fresh black fruits, spiced plum, black olive and cassis, with concentration that gathers lift through the palate. Juicy, vivid sage and liquorice bud, so full of character, fine supple tannins, touch of salinity on the close of play. 0.8ha of vines, winemaker and owner Will Berliner. 97/100

1. background & philosophy

  • Winemaker: Will Berliner

  • Location: Margaret River, Western Australia (since 2010)

  • Vineyard area: 4 hectares (ultra-small, artisanal)

  • Philosophy: "Wine is a verb, not a noun " - naturalness above all else


2. terroir & cultivation

Climate:

  • Maritime in character (cool breezes from the Indian Ocean)

  • High rainfall (hence the name "Cloudburst")

✅ So il:

  • Deep sand and clay soils over granite

  • Natural biodiversity (no monoculture)

Grape varieties:

  • Cabernet Sauvignon (main focus)

  • Malbec (small quantities)

  • Chardonnay (experiments)



3rd production method - radically natural

Cultivation:

  • No irrigation ("dry farming")

  • Manual labour (no machines)

  • Wild greening (fungi & insects as helpers)

Vinification:

  • Spontaneous fermentation (only wild yeasts)

  • No fining/filtration

  • Ageing: Old French oak barrels(no new wood)

Quantities:

  • Only ~5000 bottles/year (extremely limited)

  • No second wine (all Grand Vin)



4. the wines - rarities with cult status

The wineCharacteristicsPrice (AUD/€)Top vintages
Cloudburst Cabernet SauvignonDense, mineral, black fruits300-600 €2013, 2015, 2017, 2018
Cloudburst MalbecWild, peppery, violet200-500 €2015, 2018
Cloudburst ChardonnaySlate, citrus, salty200-400 €2017, 2020

5. critics' reviews & awards

🏆 96-98 points (James Halliday, Wine Advocate)
🏆 "Most Revolutionary Winemaker" (Gourmet Traveller Wine)
🏆 No official organic certificates - because Berliner considers them a "marketing gimmick"


6. economy & availability

  • Sale:

    • Only via waiting list (perennial!)

    • No retail, only licensed dealers

  • Collector's value:

    • Older vintages realise +30% p.a. at auction


7. cloudburst vs. classic Margaret River vintners

CriterionCloudburstCullenVasse Felix
PhilosophyRadically naturalBiodynamicConventional-modern
Production of5000 bottles20,000 bottles100,000+ bottles
Price levelExtremely highHighMedium


8. quotes & anecdotes

  • "I hate grapes. I love wine." - Will Berliner

  • 2017: A shark attack destroyed part of the harvest (got stuck in the vineyard)

💡 For collectors:

  • 2018 Cabernet (vintage of the century)

  • Only direct (website/waiting list)

📍 Fun fact:
Berliner doesn't sell tasting bottles - "Either you trust me, or you don't."



Cloudburst is not a winery - it is a manifestation. Berliner's wines are wild, untamed terroir messages that challenge everything you thought you knew about winemaking.