Hospices de Beaune - Emile Chandesais Volnay 'Cuvée Blondeau' 1979

Tasting note: Hospices de Beaune - Émile Chandesais Volnay 'Cuvée Blondeau' 1979

Vintage: 1979
Region: Volnay, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy (France)
Grape variety: Pinot Noir

Sensory analysis

Appearance:
Delicate, translucent ruby red with amber-coloured reflections on the rim. Clear signs of age, possibly slight sedimentation.

Nose:
A delicate, tertiary bouquet: dried rose petals, mushrooms (porcini), tobacco and a fine smoky note. Underpinned by flavours of preserved cherries, orange peel and a hint of vanilla (from the ageing oak barrel). Slight hints of damp leaves and sandalwood, typical of mature Burgundy.

Palate:
Elegant and fragile, with floating acidity that gives the wine surprising freshness. The tannins are almost fully integrated, restrained and silky. Flavours of dried cranberries, black tea, leather and a mineral nuance (chalk). The texture is delicate, almost translucent, but with subtle depth.

Finish:
Long, lingering finish with a saltiness reminiscent of roasted almonds and sous-bois. The fruit fades in favour of spicy, earthy accents.

Overall impression

The 1979 Volnay 'Cuvée Blondeau' from the Hospices de Beaune is a fascinating example of the longevity of top Burgundy wines. Despite the rather moderate vintage (1979 was a year with a cool summer and early harvest), it impresses with its complexity and filigree structure. The typical Volnay elegance is evident in the balance between delicate fruit and earthy ripeness - a wine that offers less power than finesse. The ageing seems to have been optimal to avoid oxidation.

Drinking maturity:
At its peak, should be drunk soon. The acidity still carries, but the fragility of the wine requires careful handling.

Serving suggestion:
At 14-16°C, decant carefully (sediment!) and aerate only briefly so as not to disturb the delicate aromatic structure.

Possible combinations:
Goes well with roast game birds (pheasant), truffle risotto or mature Comté cheese. Also a pleasure as a contemplative solo wine.

Background

The Hospices de Beaune, a wine-growing institution since 1443, sells its wines in favour of charitable causes. The 'Cuvée Blondeau' is named after a benefactor and comes from selected plots in Volnay. The 1979 was produced in an era when Burgundy wines were often less rich in extract than today - which favours its transparency and terroir. A testimony to traditional Burgundy expertise.

Rating: 92/100