Johannisberg Castle in the Rheingau: a millennium of viticulture between legend and innovation
In the heart of the Rheingau, where the Rhine makes its majestic bend to the north and the gentle slopes of the Taunus embrace the landscape like a protective cloak, sits Schloss Johannisberg - a name that epitomises the soul of German viticulture like no other. For over 900 years, this estate has not only been a place of vines, but also a living archive of European history, a melting pot of religion, politics, art and craftsmanship. The history of the estate is characterised by monastic devotion, princely power, accidental discovery and an unshakeable love of Riesling. Anyone who walks through the vineyards today can feel the breath of the centuries; anyone who takes a sip of its wine drinks the essence of a landscape that has always been considered the cradle of German wine culture.
The roots: of monks, bishops and the courage to monoculture
The origins of viticulture in Johannisberg go back to a time when wine was not a stimulant but an elixir of life - a sacrament, medicine and commodity at the same time. In 1100, Benedictine monks founded a monastery on the sun-drenched southern slope above the Rhine. They initially called the place "Bischofsberg", later "Johannisberg" in honour of John the Baptist. The monks, guided by their faith and their knowledge of the healing power of nature, recognised the potential of the terroir early on: the steep, south-facing slopes, the mineral-rich soils of quartzite, slate and loess, as well as the mild microclimate of the Rhine Valley created ideal conditions for viticulture. However, it was not until the 18th century that Johannisberg would achieve worldwide fame.
In 1720, the prince abbot of Fulda, Konstantin von Buttlar, made a revolutionary decision: From then on, only Riesling was to be cultivated on the estate's 20 hectares. It was the first documented monoculture of this grape variety in the world - a bold experiment that laid the foundations for the legend of Rheingau Riesling. The monks kept meticulous records of weather conditions, harvest times and wine quality, which is now regarded as an early form of terroir-based wine science. However, their greatest coup came by chance.
1775: The missed courier and the birth of the late harvest
In the autumn of 1775, the winegrowers of Johannisberg were waiting impatiently for permission from the Prince-Bishop of Fulda to harvest the grapes - a common practice at the time to control taxes and duties. However, the messenger tasked with authorising the harvest was delayed for weeks. When he finally arrived, the grapes were already infested with noble rot(Botrytis cinerea) and their skins had shrivelled into sultanas. In desperation, the monks pressed the grapes anyway - and were amazed to discover that the resulting wine had an unexpected sweetness and complexity. This "late harvest" marked the birth of the Spätleseand laid the foundation for the German Prädikat system, which classifies wines according to their degree of ripeness. From Kabinett to Trockenbeerenauslese - all of these terms, now global standards, are rooted in that autumnal mishap at Johannisberg.
Metternich, Goethe and the heyday of the 19th century
Secularisation at the beginning of the 19th century put an end to the monastic era. After brief interludes under Nassau and Napoleonic rule, Johannisberg fell to the Austrian statesman Klemens von Metternich in 1816, who received it as a reward for his diplomatic services at the Congress of Vienna. The estate experienced its golden era under the Metternichs. They had the castle rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style, with turrets and battlements that still characterise the postcard-perfect image of the Rheingau today. Europe's elite met in its splendid salons: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who philosophised here about the "harmony of nature and spirit"; Otto von Bismarck, who celebrated his political triumphs with Johannisberg Riesling; and Queen Victoria, who praised the 1842 Auslese as "divine nectar".
The Metternichs also modernised viticulture. They deepened the historic vaulted cellars, where huge oak barrels are still stored today, and introduced coloured sealing wax - an ingenious marketing coup that visually coded the quality levels: green for Spätlese, red for Kabinett, pink for Auslese and gold for the finest Trockenbeerenauslesen. At the same time, they established Johannisberg as a cultural centre. Concerts, poetry readings and philosophical discourses took place between the wine racks, while the vines continued to thrive outside.
Terroir: the soil, the sky and the river
The terroir of the Johannisberg is a combination of geological and climatic factors that give Riesling its unmistakable character. The vineyards rise up from the Rhine valley at an incline of up to 45 degrees - a natural amphitheatre that catches every ray of sunshine. The Rhine itself acts as a climate regulator: in summer, it stores heat, which it releases to the vines at night; in autumn, its mist provides the moisture that encourages noble rot.
The soils are a mosaic of weathered rock. In the lower area, ferruginous clay slate and loess dominate, giving the wine strength and fruit. Further up, quartzite veins run through the slate - a mineral foundation that gives the Rieslings their famous salty freshness.
From the vine to the glass: the philosophy of winemaking
Work in the vineyard at Johannisberg follows a rhythm that combines tradition and modernity. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, often in several passes, in order to catch each grape at its optimum ripeness. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts is used - a method that is risky but captures the full spectrum of the terroir. Depending on the style, the young wines are matured in stainless steel or large old oak barrels, which give the wine structure without overpowering it with woody notes.
Special attention is paid to sustainability. Since 2019, the winery has favoured organic cultivation, dispensed with herbicides and promoted biodiversity by planting greenery in the rows of vines. Even the ancient stone walls that support the steep slopes are planted with native herbs to provide a habitat for insects. "We are not the owners of this land, but merely its custodians," emphasises winegrower Christian Witte, whose family has been working on Johannisberg for generations.
The language of wine: from yellow varnish to golden varnish
The wines of the castle are a sensory lexicon of the Rheingau. At the top of the list is the Goldlack, a Trockenbeerenauslese that is only produced in outstanding years. Made from grapes concentrated by noble rot, it combines honey, mango fruit and an almost endless minerality - a wine that lasts for decades. The Rosalack (Auslese), on the other hand, is more accessible, but no less complex: its interplay of ripe peach notes, a hint of petrol and lively acidity makes it the perfect accompaniment to Asian cuisine or strong cheeses.
But Johannisberg also has its dry side: The Silberlack, a VDP Grosses Gewächs, impresses with its almondy texture with citrus notes and salty freshness. And then there is the sparkling wine, produced using the traditional bottle fermentation method: A Riesling sparkling wine with a perlage as fine as the reflection of moonlight on the Rhine.
A place of culture: more than just wine
Schloss Johannisberg is no longer just a winery, but a cultural beacon. Bottles from every vintage since 1748 are stored in the library - a liquid history book. The 1945 vintage, pressed in the ruins of the Second World War, tells of the tenacity of the people; the 1971 TBA, born in the "summer of the century", breathes the euphoria of a new era. The castle itself serves as a stage for classical concerts, where the sounds of Mozart merge with the glass clinker.
The architecture is also symbolic: the 30 metre deep well in the inner courtyard, from which the monks once drew their water, is a reminder of the monastery's roots. The chapel, a jewel of the Baroque period, houses frescoes depicting scenes from the life of St John the Baptist - a silent homage to the patron saint.
Global influence: how Johannisberg shaped the world of wine
The influence of the vineyard extends far beyond the Rheingau. In the 19th century, Johannisberg vines were exported to the USA, Australia and New Zealand, where they were proudly marketed as "Johannisberg Riesling" - a seal of quality that still stands for authenticity today. Thanks to Metternich's foresight, the estate even survived the phylloxera crisis that devastated Europe's viticulture in the late 19th century: it was grafted onto American rootstock vines at an early stage, a pioneering achievement.
Johannisberg also set standards in science. The "Johannisberg Protocols", detailed records on climate and harvests, still serve as a reference for research into climate change today. And the discovery of noble rot fermentation inspired winemakers from the Tokaj region to Sauternes.
The challenges of modernity: climate change and the search for balance
Today, under the leadership of the Oetker family (since 1942), Schloss Johannisberg faces new challenges. Global warming means earlier flowering times, higher sugar levels and the risk of extreme weather. "We have to learn to dance with nature, not against it," explains estate director Witte. The answers are multi-layered: cooler plots are being revitalised in higher locations; leaf pruning is being optimised to protect the grapes from sunburn; and old Riesling clones that ripen more slowly are being tested in trial series.
At the same time, the company remains committed to tradition. The grapes are still harvested by hand, fermentation takes place naturally and each barrel is looked after individually. Even the coloured sealing waxes - now a trademark - have remained, as has the annual "handing over" of the first grapes to the local community, a custom dating back to the Middle Ages.
Epilogue: Where time matures in the barrel
Schloss Johannisberg is more than just a winery. It is a living monument that unites the contradictions of time: medieval mysticism and modern ecology, aristocratic splendour and rural down-to-earthness, German thoroughness and global ambition. His wines are not mass-produced goods, but messengers of a place where every sip tells a story - of monks who vinified by candlelight; of diplomats who reorganised Europe; and of winegrowers who listen to the rhythm of the vine day after day.
When the poet Stefan Zweig visited Johannisberg in 1932, he wrote: "You don't drink wine here, you drink centuries." And it will stay that way. For as long as the Rhine flows past these slopes and the sun is reflected in the old slate stones, Schloss Johannisberg will be a place where past and future merge in a glass - always rooted in the poetry of Riesling.
Key historical data
Founded: 1100 as the Benedictine monastery "Bischofsberg", later renamed "Johannisberg" in honour of John the Baptist.
First Riesling monoculture: 1720 under Prince-Abbot Konstantin von Buttlar - the world's first vineyard to exclusively cultivate Riesling.
Birth of the Spätlese: 1775, when a late messenger made the noble rot harvest possible.
Secularisation: 1803 abolition of the monastery, transfer to Nassau, then to Napoleon's General Kellermann.
Metternich era: In 1816, the Congress of Vienna donated the estate to Klemens von Metternich in gratitude for his diplomatic services.
Modern owners: Owned by the Oetker family since 1942 (today under the holding company "Henkell Freixenet").
Viticulture & cellar technology
Cultivation: Organic since 2019 (no herbicides, revegetation, biodiversity promotion).
Harvest: Exclusively hand-picked, often in several passes ("Tries").
Fermentation: Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, partly in steel tanks, partly in large oak foudres.
Ageing: Traditional ageing in deep vaulted cellars (up to 30 metres underground).
Production volume: Approx. 150,000 bottles/year (high selection).
Classification & wines
Colour coding since 1820 (Metternich system):
Rotlack→Kabinett (fruity, light).
Grünlack→Spätlese (ripe, harmonious).
Goldlack → Trockenbeerenauslese (noble sweet, luxurious).
Yellow varnish → Qba Riesling.
Silberlack → VDP GG.
Sparkling wine: Traditional bottle fermentation ("Méthode Traditionelle"), mainly from Riesling.
Legendary vintages:
1842 Auslese (praised by Queen Victoria).
1945 (produced despite the destruction of the war).
1971 ("vintage of the century").
Culture & Architecture
Castle building: Neo-Gothic style (19th century) with striking towers and a view of the Rhine.
Library: Contains over 8,000 bottles, including every harvest since 1748.
Chapel: Baroque frescoes with scenes from the life of John the Baptist.
Historical guests: Goethe, Bismarck, Queen Victoria, Tsar Alexander I.
Worldwide influence
Vine exports:In the 19th century, Johannisberg Riesling vines were brought to the USA, Australia and New Zealand (marketed there as "Johannisberg Riesling").
Science: The "Johannisberg Protocols" (climate and harvest data since 1700) are one of the oldest documents on viticulture.
Challenges & future
Climate change: Earlier harvest times, experiments with more heat-tolerant clones.
Sustainability: solar systems, water management, CO₂ reduction.
Tradition vs. modernity: preserving manual harvesting, but using drones to monitor the vines.
Curiosities & customs
Wine handover: Annual ritual in which the first grapes of the harvest are donated to the community.
Schloss Johannisberg is not just a winery, but a living piece of European cultural history - where every drop preserves a story.